An
ice axe is a multi-purpose ice and snow tool employed by
mountaineers both in the ascent and descent of routes which involve frozen conditions. It can be held and employed in a number of different ways, depending on the terrain encountered. In its simplest role, the ice axe is used like a walking stick in the uphill hand, the mountaineer holding the head in the centre, with the pick pointing to the rear. It can also be buried pick down, the rope tied around the shaft to form a secure anchor on which to bring up a second, or buried vertically to form a stomp belay. The adze is used to cut footsteps (sometimes known as pigeon holes), as well as scoop seats in the hillside and trenches to bury an ice axe belay.
[1] An ice axe is not only used as an aid to climbing, but also as a means of self-arrest in the event of a downhill slip.
Most ice axes meet design and manufacturing standards of organizations such as the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (UIAA) or European Committee for Standardization. There are two classifications of ice axe, Basic and Technical. Basic axes are aimed at the beginner or casual user, and are adequate for basic support and self-arrest. They are not suitable for vertical, technical climbing, or for use in belaying. Technical graded axes have stronger shafts and are suitable for use in a direct belay, such as in a buried axe anchor. To confuse the issue, the term 'technical axe' is also used to refer to an axe with a curved shaft, such as those used for steep or vertical ice climbing.
An ice axe consists of at least five components
Common ice axe accessories include
