The limits training is to educate your dog to stay in one place with no physical barriers to that. |
For example, you can train your dog not to enter a certain room, stay in the garden, do not enter the garage, etc.. ? First and foremost the safety of your dog and other ? Please note that training with limits also has its limits, despite the redundancy. While you can teach your dog to stay within certain physical limits, training is never 100% reliable. ? So, never leave your dog unattended in a place that may cause or receive any damage, not as a garden fence. ? If you leave your dog in a garden is not fenced, you expose it to: ?? To go out and cause damage to others, whether biting people, fighting dogs or just doing other household needs. ? That stolen, poisoned or abused. ? What other attack dogs. ? That scare people passing by, even if it leaves the garden. ? That leaves your property and lost or run over. ? To develop bad habits in relation to people and strange dogs. ? In other words, no matter how well trained is your dog, never rely on dog training when you can not supervise your best friend. ? If you want your dog to stay in the garden or other open place without any supervision, better read the article "How to keep your dog in the garden" which provides a more reliable strategy based on environmental management. ? Invisible Barriers Part 1 ? At the beginning of this article was intended to explain step by step how to teach your dog to stay in a given environment, but in finding more information Kikopup found the videos, the YouTube channel of Emily Larlham, showing much training with limits better than I could. ? Emily has two limits training videos, called Invisible Invisible Barriers Barriers Part 1 and Part 2. Note that in these two videos show how to make the dog is inside the garden, but the procedure is the same if you want to stay elsewhere. ? Below is the first of the training videos Kikopup limits and then a brief explanation in Castilian the same, indicating the important parts of the video with the times.
At the beginning of the video, the coach emphasized that this exercise is not a substitute for a fence in the garden and if you leave your dog in an open garden you're exposing yourself to many dangers. He also notes that the first thing to do to teach this exercise is to take security measures, so holding your dog with a harness and long leash (00:38 - 00:50). ? Please note that use of the harness or chest is much better than a collar, as not all dogs are as quiet as you see in these videos and some may jump at full speed behind something that catches your eye. In that case, the shock collar can injure the neck of your dog while it stops for a harness chest. ? To begin with the training of bounds, let your dog walk along the boundary or barrier, moving you along the same but opposite. Often click and give a bit of food to your dog as long as it remains on the right side of the boundary in question. Try to click when your dog is in motion and not when standing still or assume a certain position (sitting, lying, etc..), As this may confuse the exercise and think you have to stand still (0:50 - 1: 30). ? If you train in a place where your dog is not easy when you throw food, or just your dog looking for food on the floor, give it directly from your hand. Just make sure to reinforce his behavior when he stays on the right side of the limit and give the food on that side. Of course, if you can throw the food and your dog picks it up, you have the advantage of being able to get away a little more and work at a distance (1:30 to 1:50). ? Gradually raise the training standard walking away gradually. Reinforces the behavior of your dog when you keep the right side of the boundary. If your dog crosses the limit, you can expect to return voluntarily, point out the other side of the boundary or even guide you to return with food (1:50 to 2:25). ? The first few times that happens, you can give a little bit of food back to the right side of the limit, but do not do it often because it can become a habit and your dog would cross the border to return and receive their food. It is best to wait a little after he returned to the right side and not move a bit over the limit, to click and reinforce the behavior when your dog walk around that way (1:50 to 2:25). ? The trainer also recommends some exercises to improve the training of limits and start to train your distractions (2:25 to 3:10). Such exercises have: ?? Walk forward and backward in front of your dog (near and far from it) ? Walk across the boundary (stopping at the beginning) ? Running across the border on both sides ? random movements ? Following these recommendations, presents few minutes training with distractions (3:10 to 4:47). Note that at time 3:45 of the video, after the dog crossed the threshold, the coach stops before you click and give him food in the right side of the boundary. This helps the dog to focus on exercise. ? Note that to train the distractions worth starting walking slowly across the boundary and not as fast as you can see in the video. Now, if your dog has mastered some dog obedience exercises such as sit still and stop on command, you can probably speed up a little more training limits, but never give an order to stop. The idea is to stop without a warrant when it reaches the set limit or barrier.
Part 2 invisible barriers ? The video above shows you only the start of training limits. In the following video of Kikopup have the second part where you perfect exercise. ? In this second part, enter a release order for the dog to pass the barrier or the limit and see how to train with some more intense distractions.
The first thing you see in the video is that the coach teaches your dog a release order that allows the dog to cross the barrier. For this, just get to the limit (for example, the curb, as shown in the video) and wait for your dog to stop. Once you have, give the order to release you've decided (for example, "we") and stimulate your dog to cross the limit. When it does, you click and give a bit of food (0:00 - 0:30). ? If you want you can take this part of the training and teach your dog a command to get across the boundary. Just give the order and stimulate your dog to go back to the inner side of the limit (0:30 - 0:41). You can guide it with food if you find it easier. ? After the release order to show and how to teach an order to return to the initial side, the video shows you what is the control stimulation on the release order (0:30 - 1:04). This is important because all dog training is based on controlled stimuli to different behaviors of dogs. ? Basically indicating the video at this point is to put the release order under the stimulus control means: ?1.The dog pass the limit every time they are required 2.The dog never goes over the limit without release order 3.The dog never goes over the limit in response to another stimulus (eg, in response to another order) 4.Ning?n other behavior occurs in response to the order of release to go the limit. ? Then as an example of stimulus control that your dog does not pass the barrier that it has imposed, even if he throws toys at the other side (1:04 to 1:34). In this part of the video is worth to note that if you train on a street also have to watch out for cars. At time 1:11, a vehicle is very close to the coach. Safety is so important for the dog and the trainer. ? Later examples of how to train with distractions (1:34 to 2:04). The strategy used is to click and reinforce the behavior with food while the distraction occurs. This makes it easy to "capture" the dog within the limits before you leave behind distraction. The disadvantage is that you can have the dog can cross the boundary between the click and food, so it is important to you to deliver the food always on the right side of the boundary (in).
Then the trainer gradually increases the time it appears distraction and clicks. Thus, the dog learns that you have to wait within the limit imposed even if there are distractions from the other side.
Some important things to train in this exercise are distractions (2:04 - 2:23): ?? Throw food on the floor ? Toys ? People and dogs ? Distractions that stimulate the prey drive (from toys tied to a rope to living creatures) ? Of course, while your dog has mastered training with limits, it is important to use a harness on a leash long while training with distractions.
And of course, you also have to gradually increase the time your dog remains within the area and you can even disappear from sight for short periods (2:23 to 2:44). Remember that the harness and leash are essential safety tools while your dog is still learning. ? At the end of this video (2:44 - end), the trainer includes an interesting text which can be translated as follows: ?
"A common misconception about training is that the physical pain produces more reliable results. This is false. Has been scientifically proven that the reinforced behavior will occur again in the future while behaviors that are reinforced tend to die out.
And while it is true that dogs avoid the pain, can be sacrificed to a moment of pain to get across a barrier that deprives them of freedom. Instead, we seek to train dogs to want to be within the limits, not to feel afraid of the pain when they cross those boundaries. "
Possible that this refers to is not necessary or humane use electric fences or other punishment-based methods to prevent the dog crosses a boundary. It certainly is not necessary or safe, as these methods can not only hurt the dog but also cause collateral problems of behavior. ? Keep in mind that training, either positive or with traditional methods, not 100% effective, so if you want to get your dog being left unattended in the garden, you need an adequate fence.
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