If there are certain places that the dog or cat likes to hide or rest, I can guarantee that fleas have been laying eggs in that area, or "hot spot" and a chemical treatment in that area is a must. |
Prevention is the key to flea control both inside and outside. First step for control is to eliminate the breeding site. A thorough cleaning of the house is your first order of business. This is a very important measure and should not be taken lightly.
Treating the Home
if your home has reached the point where the flea eggs, larvae, and pupae are widespread in the carpet, you need to treat all those areas with a properly labeled product. Choose materials that are excellent, odorless, and of extremely low hazard when used correctly.
You want to ensure, though, that you DO NOT SPRAY any clothing, children's toys, or any other personal materials. Use common sense when treating, and realize that fleas are not breeding in shoes, board games and other areas where pets never go.
Pick up everything on the floor, including under beds and inside closets Flip up the bed blankets so the area below is readily accessible Tie back floor length drapes so the edges of walls are accessible Pull out sofas and chairs and pick up the debris, and vacuum that area thoroughly Remove all pet dishes from floors Cover fish tanks and turn off the air supply during the application Vacuum every square inch of carpet as thoroughly as you can. That bears repeating – VACUUM every square inch of carpet as thoroughly as you can. This will not only straighten up the fibers of the carpet to facilitate the action of the spray, but it also is the physical movement and contact that will cause many of the flea pupae to hatch to adult fleas, and get them past the difficult stage. Try to spray every inch of carpet and furniture and hardwood floors that is possible – even under beds and under sofas and chairs. Spray the pet bedding and "runs" that the pest uses in the house.Allow the chemical to dry before walking on it, and try to walk backwards when applying, so you don't walk through the spray.
If chemical odor is a concern there are excellent products that do not smell. Believe it or not, there is a large percentage of homeowners who are NOT satisfied if they cannot smell something, thinking that pesticides must stink if they are going to work. The times have changed, though, and odors were usually associated with the oil and kerosene solutions that are not used anymore.
Do NOT go back into the home after treatment if the carpets are still damp. You want to wait till the spray is dry, so that it does not contact your skin, and once it is dry it adheres very, very tightly to the carpet fibers. You can check this by placing a tissue paper on the carpet and stepping on it lightly with your shoe. If it shows a wet spot then you need to leave again for another hour or two. Opening windows and turning up heaters prior to the application, if possible, will speed up drying time.
The second important step is to vacuum again, every day if at all possible. This is not going to remove any flea chemicals, but will once again cause flea pupae to hatch to adults. The chemical cannot kill the pupa, as it is hidden within its cocoon, but the adult fleas that emerge can be killed by the freshly placed spray, even after it is dry. You should dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag after vacuuming so that flea eggs that have been sucked inside do not hatch within the vacuum cleaner and become another problem.
The third thing you need to do is to please be patient. It takes about 3 weeks for fleas to complete their life cycle, from egg to adult. You still will see occasional fleas for the next two to four weeks, until they are all emerged from their pupae. You can speed up this process by vacuuming regularly, but adding more chemical applications on top of what is already there.
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