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Tips about Building a Living Fence by Vicky Smith
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Tips about Building a Living Fence |
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Business
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I have built enough spec homes in recent years to find that many people still do enjoy the concept of a “living fence.” Buyers have often remarked that this feature was one of the things that helped them decide to buy the home. This article will explain how to install a two rail, western red cedar fence, along with tips on planting to create a more amenable way to mark your property lines. Split Rail Fence Suppliers Provided you live in the United States west of the Mississippi River, western red cedar is plentiful and most any fence supplier will either stock or be able to order everything needed to install a split rail fence. Usually they offer either a two or three rail option but unless you are really in love with the look of a three rail fence, why not spare some of the expense for both materials and labor and install the two rail version -- spend the saved money on a border garden alongside the fence. Western red cedar is not a common material east of "the big river," however. Cypress is more popular, but it just doesn’t have the same feel or look of red cedar. There are lumber suppliers to be found online who advertise free delivery but charge 20-30 percent more for the materials. This is by far the better option in most cases, as ordering from a western supplier will often cost more in delivery charges than materials. Step 1: Sketch and Count Start with a simple sketch of your fence plan, allowing 10 feet between posts. Count the number of corner posts, end posts and interim posts, and add up 2 rails per section. (If there are a few large trees on the property line, it's best to just end the fence on either side rather than attach the rails to the tree). Posts are usually 7 to 8 feet long, but can be cut down to avoid extra digging or a fence that looks too high. Visit your local lumber yard or order what you need online. Step 2: Dig the Holes Excavate the holes to a minimum of 2 feet deep and a maximum of 3 feet deep with a post hole digger, a hole shooter (a short, narrow blade shovel) and a stout metal bar or crowbar. For hard rock or difficult soil, consider hiring a small drilling contractor as the time and hard labor may be worth the price. Step 3: Lay Out the Plan Lay out the fences materials, with posts leaning in the holes and rails alongside. If there is a section that must be shorter than ten feet, just cut the rails down. Notch the ends to fit two rails in the pre-drilled post. Step 4: Treat the Wood Pre-coat the posts with a wood preserver such as Penofin - 3 coats is preferable. For heavy moisture regions or termite country, wrap the post bottoms with 6 mil black plastic sheeting and secure with a hand stapler or tape.
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