Dry stone walls are coveted features in any landscape. Centuries-old stone walls crisscross New England farmlands. Dry-stacked stone walls were a practical choice a century ago. The soil was studded with rocks so farmers needed to till smooth the soil for planting and removed and stacked the rocks. The resulting walls lasted many years. Today, as yesterday, rock walls take time and strength to build. For safety, limit your rock wall to 3 feet. Remember, rock walls are heavy! If they fail, anyone near the wall could be seriously injured. Many walls above 3 feet require permits, and are best left to professionals. Follow the simple techniques of a classic dry-stacked stone wall, and your stone wall will be beautiful and last many years as well. Instructions as follows: Firstly, sketch out your garden site. Note any slopes or setbacks. Draw your desired wall site onto your original sketch. Design the wall on even land. Remember, limit the wall height to 3 feet or less. Your rock wall should lean inwards. The angle and resulting pressure of rocks on themselves makes your wall stable. Secondly, excavate your work site to a depth of 6 inches. Spread a thin layer of sand if needed to fully even out the surface. Thirdly, select a long soapstone block (bond stone) and place it at the head of your wall. Repeat at the other end of the wall. Choose a stone which is as long as the desired wall depth. Fourthly, lay flat-faced stones along the perimeter edge of your trench. These "course stones" must fit tightly. Fill in the middle of the trench with smaller stones and rubble. Fifthly, start the second layer. Place course stones on top of the first layer of course stones. Stagger the second layer so that the length of the stone spans across the vertical gap, or "joint," between your first layer stones. Arrange each course stone so its face tapers up and inwards. Fill in the center of your second layer with smaller peculiar stone and rubble. Check the angle with the batter gauge. Sixthly, add more layers. Lay in longer bond stones every 5 feet to add stability. Try and select stones which fit tightly against one another. Again, each layer, or "course," should be offset from the previous layer. Staggering the vertical joints in this manner makes the wall more stable and more water tight. Seventhly, fill in any gaps between stones; tap smaller stones in place with a mason's hammer. Use broad, flat stones to finish the top of your wall. Mortar the top rocks if you get frost in your area. It will help stabilize the "cap" or top layer. The less water inside your wall layers, the less shifting occurs after freeze and thaw cycles. Tips & Warnings Choose local stone. Granite looks at home in New England. Choose sandstone for desert locations. Locate any underground utility pipes before you dig. Finally, let me have a short conclusion. As an eminent business E-platform of promoting stone industry, our client resource has accounted over 100 thousand spreading more than 100 countries and regions, with a visit volume exceeding 5 million times annually. If you are really interested in us and want to consult us freely, you can also see shower room or become a loyal follower of us by @ https://twitter.com/stonebtb.
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