Brioni creates some of the best suits in the world. However, if the suit does not fit exactly right, no name in the world will make it look good. Even though there are numerous alterations that a tailor can do, you should try to ensure that the suit is as close to fitting as possible when you buy it. |
The shoulder seam of the suit should sit at the tip of your shoulder; this rule applies to any and all padding. Padding should never stick out past the shoulder bone. If it does, the sleeve will not hang correctly and the suit will appear baggy and comical. On the other hand, if the seam is too high on the shoulder, the material will appear stretched. This will not only look unattractive, it may mean that the armholes of the suit will not fit correctly and the wearer will not have full range of motion.
The sleeve of the jacket should reach to the bottom of the wrist, just above the point where the thumb starts. Most fashion experts will state that the sleeve of the shirt should be slightly visible.
When you have the suit on, and it is buttoned, you should be able to make a complete arm circle. The suit should not feel tight across the arch of the back or in the armpit.
On a suit which only has two buttons, the top one should not be below your belly button. On a three button suit, this rule applies to the middle one.
When you have the jacket on and buttoned you should be able to slide your flat hand under the lapel. However, if you make a fist under the lapel the material at the button should pull. If there is no change, the suit is too big.
When you put the jacket on and stand naturally, the vents should remain closed. If they are open, the jacket is too tight.
To check the length of the jacket, you have to make a special fist. When you make the fist, tuck your thumb into your fist and allow your arm to hang freely. The jacket should fall to the second joint of the tucked in thumb. In tailoring terms, this is often called “the rule of thumb”. There is a bit of leeway in how long the sleeve can be. Some suits are designed to be worn slightly longer. However, the jacket must completely cover your bottom. When you put the jacket on and do up the buttons, the button holes should not be pulled. The jacket should fall freely and not appear pulled.
The pleats on the pants should not appear stretched. The line of the pleat should be vertical.
The leg of the pants must touch the top of the shoes. Tailors refer to the horizontal crease line, which is created at this point, as the break. The break can be short, virtually nonexistent, but it must be there. On the other hand, the back of the trousers should not touch the floor. If the break is too deep or full, this might happen.
To ensure that you are able to make an educated purchase, you should also follow a few simple rules.
If possible, wear the shoes which you will be wearing with the suit, when you go to get it altered. If this is not possible, wear shoes which are similar.
When you are trying on jackets, you should always wear an actual dress shirt. Do not try on suits while wearing sweaters or t-shirts. These garments will not permit you to get an accurate feel for the jacket.
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