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This treatment regime will control the pest ant species found in New Zealand. There are however some interesting differences between the species and how best to deal with each of them. Ants are often found invading our kitchens or marching across our decks in search of food, our food; the sandwich we innocently left on the breakfast bar or the glass of coke on the barbecue. Put a barrier around your house to stop the ants from your neighbour's taking the place of those you have removed. It is important to note that all of the ants found indoors, only a few species are responsible for the majority of infestations; some species are not common inside a structure but appear sporadically; and other types of ants are found inside only under rare or accidental conditions. While the third group is difficult to prepare for, the first group will be studied, discussed, and control experiences analyzed. The middle group may take an inordinate amount of your time, with inconclusive results. These elusive ants may appear several times in one year, then not be encountered for several years. Some are more or less common in some regions and uncommon in others. Remember, most ant infestations originate outside the building. Sprinkle insecticide granules on the surface of flowerbeds and gravel or sandy areas around the house and water in. These products slowly release a ‘curtain' of insecticide into the ground which acts as a barrier to ants that would burrow their way into your house. Spray or paint deltamethrin or permethrin residual surface spray around the base of the walls of your house and possible entry points such as doors, window frames, vents, downpipes etc. This will act as a surface barrier to prevent ants and other crawling insects getting into the house. Now deal with the nests. Routinely maintain these barrier treatments and you will remain free from ant problems in your home. Your first treatment should be using ant bait. Ants change their feeding habits depending on the needs of the colony; sometimes preferring sweet sugary bait and sometimes they want more protein. Consider the species when choosing bait. Some excellent all purpose bait choices include Light Karo Syrup, cornstarch, honey, molasses, peanut butter and/or jelly. Use baits with non-volatile stomach poisons, e.g., boric acid, borax or sodium borate. Baits are excellent in critical areas, Mix (5% or less) food-grade DE, boric acid (or borax) into any food you see the ants eating - if the ants die by the poisoned bait - use less boric acid or borax - be careful not to allow children, pets or wildlife to eat these toxic baits. Remember to routinely switch from carbohydrate back to protein baits, or use both. Do not spray or dust around baits. Never store baits or bait materials where they can be contaminated with any other odors, especially smoke or fumes of volatile pesticides. Ants and other insects can detect minute amounts of foreign or repellent chemicals and will avoid chalk lines, calcium chloride, baking soda, talcum powder and other dusts. Other Alternative Baits Combine: 1 part active yeast, 2 parts molasses and 1 part sugar. Mix the ingredients well. Drop a teaspoonful on several small squares of white paper. Place the paper squares along ant trails where they will not be disturbed. How does it work? The ants are attracted to the sugary feast and consume it readily. The action of the yeast, however, produces gas in their bellies and they can not rid themselves of it. They essentially pop. The best part of this method of alternative pest control is that it utilizes no volatile poisons which could harm you or your family or your pets. Mix ½ cup molasses and ½ cup peanut butter and 1 packet of active dry yeast. For more information on this topic, check out our main page here: Auckland ant controls
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