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Perfumes 101 Perfume has been part of our fashion and culture since before history was recorded and existed in some of the earliest human civilizations. The first recorded chemist was a woman, Tapputi, a perfume maker in Mesopotamia in the 2nd millenium B.C. The oldest perfumery was excavated in 2005 on the island of Cyprus. It was huge - 4000 sq. meters. It existed 4,000 years ago and manufactured perfume on an industrial scale. In the 1500's France became known as the European center of perfume and has remained so to this day. They grew a major industry cultivating flowers for their essence. Louis XV's court was called "le cour parfumee" (the perfumed court). Perfume was still a popular substitute for soap and water due to the lack of hygienic practices of the day. Modern perfumery started in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma compounds, e.g., vanillin or coumarin. Perfume contains the highest concentration of essential oils, and less alcohol, than Eau de Parfum. Increasingly more alcohol is used in Eau de Cologne and Eau de Toilette. Perfume is the most luxurious and thus the most expensive. Houses of perfume differ in their concentrations so an Eau de Toilette from one house may contain a higher concentration of essential oils than an Eau de Parfum of another house. Concentration, intensity and longevity of the natural essential oils and perfume oils determine the intensity and longevity of a perfume. Perfumes may contain 15-40% concentration of aromatic compounds while an aftershave may only contain 1-3%. The oils are frequently diluted with ethanol or ethanol and water. It can also be diluted with neutral-smelling oils such as coconut, or with liquid waxes such as jojoba. In 1945 modern classifications of perfume were considered to be: Bright Floral - including single floral and floral bouquet categories; Green - cut grass, crushed green leaves and cucumber-like scents; Aquatic, Oceanic (or Ozonic, which is the newest classification - added in 1988) - a clean smell like the ocean; Citrus - as in fruits; Fruity - fruits other than citrus fruits, such as peach, cassis, mango and passion fruit; and Gourmand - that which has edible qualities, such as vanilla, tonka bean and coumarin. Some industry leaders claim perfume has a shelf life of one year. Others say 2 years. Truth be told there are things you can do to extend the life of your perfume from 3 - 5 years. After that time the oils break down, and the color of the perfume changes. Light, heat and exposure to the air are the enemies. Dark or opaque bottles last longer than clear ones. Store the perfume in its original box in a dark drawer. Do not display your perfumes on your dresser, tempting though that might be. Keep the cap tightly sealed to prevent evaporation and oxidation. Do not refrigerate your perfume, although this might be a very nice treat in the summer with a Citrus Cologne. On the average a woman has 6 bottles of perfume. Do not go overboard and buy so many that you will not be able to use in 3-5 years' time. Perfumes are described as a musical metaphor. Fragrance is released in 3 stages with 3 different notes that all come together in harmonious accord. The top note is released in the first 10-30 minutes. It is perceived immediately. It also evaporates quickly. Then the middle notes are released, and they last for several hours. Finally the base notes come in and linger for the last 2-3 hours. (At the end of a perfume's lifespan it is the base notes that break down first.) The notes unfold over time and are created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process. Perfume Tips: Not all perfumes are suited to all climates. Some heavier perfumes are suited to the cold weather, while the light, airy perfumes are suited to the summer months. These include citrus, fruity, oceanic, woody and light floral notes. Stay away from sweet, syrupy or sugary aromas. Summer heat causes quick evaporation, so be prepared to reapply . . . sparingly. If you overdo it, a little alcohol or witch hazel on a cotton ball will take care of it. Look for promotions over the holidays -- especially Christmas and Mother's Day. Often you can find deluxe sizes for the price of a smaller item. You may also find powder, lotion, cologne and mini's paired in the box for no extra charge. Use these products together for the layering effect: soap, gel, lotion, powder and then the perfume. It's an excellent way to extend the fragrance. Come to my website for some fabulous classic, new and celebrity perfumes. www.patsperfumes.com
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perfume, eau de parfum, modern perfumery, top note, layering, essential oils, concentration, modern classifications, shelf life,
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