On the fringes of Liverpool"s Baltic Triangle, a helpful bluesign points the way to A Foundation. Someone needs to Tippex overit: the contemporary art organisation, established by James Moores(of Littlewoods and cultural philanthropy fame), closed last year. But the building its Liverpool base occupied – a vast andformerly very chilly complex of three industrial spaces, a furnace,a blade factory and a coach shed – is still there onGreenland Street, where that sign points. It"s now Camp AndFurnace, and it"s worth finding.
Moores is still involved here, though the four directors (onearchitect, one designer and a pair of musical brothers) have enoughideas of their own. One space is dotted with vintage caravans and will eventually forma hotel. There is gallery space (the Liverpool Biennial, also established byMoores, is currently running and has a strong presence), eventspace, music space, exhibition space, screening space. The rooftopbar and Victorian-style pub under discussion could go in withouttouching the sides. There"s a lot of space.
Sensibly, Camp And Furnace has put a laid-back bar and restaurantat the heart of the works and has shown commitment to heating itproperly. There"s a huge communal table laid with carafes oflime-spiked water, mesh cages full of logs for the fire and ablackboard inviting breakfasters to make their own toast. The menu, overseen by local caterer Steven Burgess, continues theoutside-in theme, with outdoorsy dishes served from clatteringlunch Wire Mesh Trays Mesh Traysand old-school but pristine camping pans. With its multi-use, hipster-friendly,have-a-waxed-moustache-and-a-beer agenda, Camp And Furnace has thepotential to irritate. But we love it on sight, partly because ithas an air of permanence.
No one who has bothered smoking their own wheat for their own beerin their own furnace (the resulting pale ale, Brown Bear, is lightand, yes, faintly smoky) is thinking about an exit strategy. Foodstarts at £1 for Lancashire cheese or homemade baked beans ontoast, suggesting a commitment to getting people through the door. Settled between a wall of Penguin fiction and one of referenceworks (it"s true what they say: books really do furnish afurnace), we encounter those homemade baked beans as a side forpulled pork with apple coleslaw. They"re black-eyed beans, not quite cooked, and would havebeen no fun even if we"d paid a quid to have them on toast.The pork is better, though it needs more fat and no burned bits,which do not have the magic of burned brisket ends.
There"s a bit of international folderol, including chickenwings with Middle Eastern spicing and cumin aioli, but the majorityof dishes feel either English or American. A salt beef sandwich ontoasted Peckham Rye bread (rightly given a gong by the Real BreadCampaign last week) lacks fat and juice but makes up for it insauerkraut and melty Emmental. We also have a ‘poacher" platter; the partitioned metaltray it comes on is a cold, unfriendly vehicle for the littlecirclets of silky salt-cured venison fillet, flavoured with fennelseeds, and the gravadlax that is billed as beetroot and vodka-curedbut remains defiantly un-beetrooty. The abundance of acc-ompaniments – ribbons of sweet cucumber,a crisp gherkin, mustard crème fraîche and greenleaves in a dressing so sharp it almost counts as pickle liquor– is the kind of sour-sweet luxury you"d hold yourlunch tray out for.
As other customers come in for a drink (the kitchen closes at 8pmfrom Monday to Saturday and earlier on Sundays), we finish withproper, hardcore coffee and damp slices of lemon and blueberrycake, thick with glacé icing, from the bar. They"refabulous but a bit bashed, so we"re not charged. Free cake and the kindness of bartenders is enough to make anyonehappy but that"s not the only reason Camp And Furnace gave usa warm glow. It"s the right kind of new life for this oldplace: clever, well designed and – fingers crossed –future-proof.
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