Obviously, our forefathers didn't worry an excessive amount of about heating their record cabins. Big fireplaces had not a problem warming up the couple of rooms they lived within. Of course now which log homes are family-sized, people often have the impression that there's something different about that they are heated, and the good thing is that a standard system works as well in a log home like a traditional structure. |
Almost all log houses are built with a minimum of one fireplace. Initially, we thought our beautiful soapstone woodstove would heat the entire house, and we would make use of our forced-air propane heat like a backup. Alas, we had been all wrong. Because we now have a cathedral ceiling having a big loft, the heat in the stove goes directly upper level, requiring two ceiling enthusiasts to recalculate the heated air. We expected this, but we also thought heat would expand sideways into all of those other open floor space (dining space and kitchen). Not in your life! Even sitting about the couch about 15 feet in the stove, I need the coverlet. I'm uncomfortably chilly within the kitchen. I think when we had a normal ceiling, the heat may have gone where we anticipated it, but the amount of the cathedral ceiling put off our calculations. Additionally, the soapstone stove is made to be run 24/7, and because the two of us work for a residing, the stove doesn't get thrilled until the evening. This woodstove must be heated up slowly in the risk of cracking the actual stone, so by time it's really cooking we are ready for bed.
Old-fashioned fireplaces traditionally sucked all of the warm air from the room, but modern designs tend to be more efficient at recalculating heat. The most energy-efficient fireplace is built in the heart of the house, so the stack heat isn't lost to the outdoors. Outside stacks can create back drafts when the fire is extinguished, creating a new fire more hard to light. If you plan multiple fireplaces, putting two of all of them back-to-back (facing adjoining rooms) provides you with the opportunity to construct one chimney with 2 flues. Or you might put a fireplace over your furnace, again allowing two flues within the same chimney. A direct-vent fireplace will get rid of the chimney, but you'll have to learn how to hide the vent on the exterior wall. Or, if you utilize a wood-stove, you could run the pipe with the wall and straight in the outside, building a box round the pipe to simulate the chimney. Depending on the appearance you want, you might want to leave the pipe within the room and send it with the roof. This will provide more heat.
It's smart to consider your heating as well as air-conditioning needs early within the design phase. Although record homes are naturally energy-efficient, it isn't wise to skimp in your system. You may have the ability to heat your whole house having a huge fireplace or wooden stove, but the township will most likely have minimum standards to satisfy before they issue the building permit. Also, you have to consider resale value. I understand of one person who tried to market a million-dollar handcrafted log home with no furnace, and as you may suspect, the buyer never arrived. The house was detailed as unfinished, and installing the heat after the fact was too daunting an activity. A similar problem exists should you try to get away without central ac. Yes, log homes do stay cooler within the summer, but those "dog days" of August can provide you with a perfectly miserable night's rest, and a potential buyer will most likely not be as tolerant since the original owner. Indeed, our mortgage company wouldn't consider granting a building loan if we didn't include central ac.
If you want in order to preserve ductwork space, you should use forced air heat, using the same ductwork serving the environment conditioner. Propane or oil is often the fuels of option in rural areas. In case your interior wall space is restricted, there are companies that focus on very small, high-pressure duct systems that squeeze into tight angles; these systems usually need a much higher initial set up cost. When using conventional ductwork, you want to keep the angles at least, so it helps to style first floor walls which will conveniently carry the air upright to the second ground. An open floor plan provides a challenge, because you must be aware that the upstairs rooms have to be heated somehow, and you'll need both supply and return vents to produce an efficient air circulation. If you want to make use of full log interior wall space, you'll have to find another method to run the ductwork, electrical, and plumbing. We created that mistake, and you will find not enough return vents within our bedroom. The air is stuffy within the summer time, even using the windows open.
Where perform the vents go? Because all our exterior wall space are full log, a number of our vents were placed within the floor. If you’re inside walls are sheetrock or even tongue-and-groove, you can place the vents where these people normally go. One thing I wish we'd done was go within the plan with the AIR CONDITIONING contractor, because he put the actual events in places I discovered most inconvenient. Sometimes it may be helped, and some occasions it can't.
If you are energy-minded and would rather leave your thermostat at least, you will find how the southern-facing side of the log home is commonly warmer than the north exposure. Because the sun has a tendency to sink closer to the horizon on the winter afternoon, it's advantageous to set up your large windows dealing with south; during the summer time, the sun will go over the roof, so it's not going to overheat your house. Nevertheless, you may find how the northern side of your property - which won't get direct sun whatsoever - could be significantly cooler. The best solution would be to install radiant-floor heating (if you are able to afford it). Although this technique requires a boiler rather than a furnace, the in-floor heating spreads the heat evenly throughout your house, eliminating the northern-facing blues. Along with radiant-floor heating, you need to keep your thermostat steady constantly; the system is not made to be turned down when you attend work. Additionally, you may use the boiler to heat your warm water as well, eliminating the requirement for a hot-water heating unit. On the other hands, you will still have to install ductwork for the environment conditioning.
Overall, the same considerations apply as with regular construction. We thought we might get by with only one zone of cooling and heating, but in retrospect, two zones would have solved lots of problems. In the long haul, it's cheaper to do it correctly to begin with. Retrofitting a log home won't be a breeze!
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