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Remembering that 1966/67 were troubled times in Aden with political decisions resulting in violence. I would prefer to look to another picture that shows how humanity ought to be. It is a picture of joy, walking hand in hand with local people of Aden and Somalia as young people experienced being a part of Scouting in Aden. I remembered talking with these people who were proud of their national identity and heritage, but I remember how such people were also able to reach out and support each other in all that they experienced. * Aden is a fetal universe, one which can only be visualized in feminine terms. After the volcanic mountain had spewed out its lava from the fury of the subterranean depths, after it had spread into the ocean – returning to different deeps – it served as a refuge for men. In this secret, closed environment, where spells are conjured up, they felt themselves protected, and they settled in its belly, as if to be in the front row should it reawaken. They decided to live there, to develop their lives there, to procreate, to fight and to love there So reads Jose Marie Bel`s introduction into "Aden, the Mythical Port of Yemen". Aden is a city of natural wonders, a volcano, splendid shores and deep waters, a startling climate, a city with districts and architecture that was not really Yemeni, but more Western, a curious blend of civilizations and beliefs, a people with un-spoilt, gentle nature, eager to embrace a better existence, with distinctive customs and music, a world where everything is different, that world of cool, verdant mountains or that of the valleys of Hadhramawt. Burnished by the sun of Arabia, brought up among sand, rocks and extreme hardships, formed in the melting pot of three neighboring seas and continents, the ancestors of the Adenis, have given birth to a proud, brave people, one of the most beautiful on earth. Aden used to be the favored ports of call for seamen and caravaneers, at the cross – roads of deserts and ocean. A meeting place o ships, an essential and privileged port of call. During the nineteenth century Britain emerged as the dominant power in the Indian Ocean region, and acquired a huge territorial empire among which also the Yemeni port of Aden. By 1839, Aden, a governorate in the present Republic of Yemen, became part of the British Empire, administered by the Bombay Presidency. The Aden administration was separated from India in April 1939 when a Governor directly answerable to London was appointed. Southern Arabia consisting of Aden Port and its hinterland was geo-strategically and geo-politically important for the British Government. The Aden Port not only had a deep influence on the trade and commerce passing through the Red Sea, Persian Gulf and the Indian Ocean, but provided a natural harbor for developing a naval base for the imperial defense. In the immediate post-war period Aden's economic activity expanded greatly due to the general upsurge in world trade and more specifically, to the expansion of Aden port stimulated by the increased tanker traffic to and from the oil fields of the Gulf. Except for the brief period of 1956- 1957 when the Suez Canal was closed, the port of Aden continued to expand throughout the 1950s and in 1958 was the busiest harbor in the world after New York. Moreover, as the only sovereign British base in the Middle East, the Colony offered security to foreign investors. The local trading agencies made vast profits out of the shipping boom and the increase in port traffic, and most expanded their businesses in new directions. The Aden government, and especially the British armed forces, added to the boom by building hospitals, schools, barracks, housing and shopping facilities for the military personnel. The British stayed for 130 years, leaving in 1967. "From Barren Rocks to Living Stones" is Jon Magee's memoir of Aden that covers his eighteen month period in the teenage life in the nineteen sixties. It is his reflection on the people and the places, a reflection of the Colonial era Aden, where he has lived, what he observed, and remembered. The book is based upon the journey of the evacuation out of Aden in 1967, with each stage of that journey bringing out another reminder of the experiences known in Aden. Amongst the events of 1966/67 were the floods of 1st April 1967, taking place on a day intended to be a General Strike with all the violence that would have resulted. In the aftermath of the flood the picture of all working together to rebuild, irrespective of differences, became the main news story of the day. The book reflects the political decisions of the day, but rather than merely being a cold recounting of political decisions and statements. It reveals how such things affect the ordinary people in life. People of all races were affected by the violence of that time, but the reflection by the author has reinforced the belief that the world will be a better place by working together with other. Mr. Jon Magee welcome to the interview. Q: Memories are like pretty picture we hang on the wall. You may have certain favorites. Do you remember the day you decided to take your Adeni pictures off the wall and decided to look at them closely? Jon: Irena, that is an interesting way of thinking about memories, though sometimes people hide the beauty of those pictures in the attic of our minds. My youth was noted for one thing, a nomadic life. By the time I had finished my education as a teenager I had been through 14 different schools. My first 30 years of life I had not lived anywhere from birth more than 3years. Perhaps a part of the coping mechanism of a youth living an unsettled life was the reason that I would find it easier to forget the past. It would seem that I could not settle if I was always looking back at where I had been. I am a Christian Minister today. At the end of the year 2006 I was asked to conduct the funeral of an elderly lady in the community. It was just another funeral. On this occasion I had often met the deceased when visiting a local nursing home, but never the family. Her son lived away from the district and all the arrangements for the funeral were made with the daughter. The first opportunity to talk with her son was at the “tea” that followed the funeral. As I spoke with him and his family I began to realize that they lived in a district that I knew very well, I lived there briefly as a teenager when I was evacuated back from Aden to Britain in 1967. I recognized some of the places he spoke of, but not the people. Then, as he spoke of a business in the locality the memories began to revive. I remembered the name of the family that owned the business and spoke of the family. I felt safe, because I thought the family was no longer there, and that seemed to be confirmed as he spoke of the name of another family who owned the business. That was fine, until his daughter interrupted and said, “But that’s the maiden name of the wife of the couple who now are the owners.” She mentioned her first name and I knew the name instantaneously. As teenagers we were very close, but with my nomadic life, and the unreliability of the postal system at the time we lost touch for 40 years. I was shocked, not so much that I remembered her. What shocked me most was that no one else was remembered. It was a difficult time in my life and many had played a part in my need of support. Why could I not recall them? For the sake of professionalism, I needed to keep these thoughts to myself, but it was not easy. Move forward now to the beginning of 2007. For health reasons I needed to take time out from work, which I found hard to accept. I remember looking at the photos of Aden in my elderly mothers’ home and knew this was my opportunity to attend to my failings of the past. As an adult I consider that every person we meet in the journey of life is a person to be treasured. We all develop in accordance with how we interact with each other. Yet, I wondered how true I had been to that concept in my youth, if the “treasured” people had been forgotten. Could this be the reason that time had been thrust upon me, time to reflect and honour the people of the past. Q: The result of your research is a book, a memoir, of your 18 months in Aden - as teenager. Why the title "Barren Rocks to Living Stones"? Jon: There is a tune often played on the Scottish bagpipes called “The barren rocks of Aden”, hence the first half of the title of a book that majors on Aden. On the 1st of April 1967 I was woken to the sound of rain falling in Aden. I could not recall such a sound since I had lived there the previous year, so it was quite amazing to me. Floods developed, and some homes were destroyed. In the days that followed there was a green coloring that developed on those “barren rocks of Aden” in the hillsides, it was as if the hills had come to life. In that moment I was reminded of an expression used in the Christian Bible, “living stones”, referring both to Jesus Christ as the living stone, but also to how lives of people can be changed for the better in a miraculous way and become “living stones”. The political decisions of the 1960’s made life difficult for people of all races, my hope is that the individuals can find something better when it seems impossible. So the title was born, “From Barren Rocks to Living Stones”. The book, in the process, reveals some of the political decisions of the time but then takes the step of revealing how they impacted the ordinary people. It is a story to draw people together despite those difficulties. Q: You set up a Facebook page and have managed to attract a number of fans. Any interesting responses, finds, encounters..? Jon: I have been overwhelmed at the response that I have seen on Facebook. The fans have grown far quicker than I would have anticipated. Even more interesting is to see how the page has brought people together from a wide number of cultures and countries. A book written by someone living in Britain might naturally attract fans from his own nation, but there are also people from Yemen, Indonesia, Malaysia, Saudi Arabia, Philippines, United Arab Emirates, Japan, Laos, Pakistan, Sudan, Singapore, Iceland, as well as Australia, USA, and European countries. On the 26th March I recall saying on the page “I am pleased to see how this has developed into a very international page. The book this page relates to presents a personal experience in the 1960's. I hope those who have now joined us recently will soon settle in and feel free to discuss. The reality is that looking back and surveying particular historical periods often comes with different perspectives. I know that we will see things differently though I trust there will be some things we agree on, but as the author of the book, I hope that we can all bring together positive and constructive comments in order that we might all learn from each other. “ That appears to be happening as we discover together that whatever maybe the national backgrounds we are all citizens of the world. All historical books will come from a perspective of the writer, but by talking together we can discover our own spiritual journey from barren rocks to living stones. Q: Until the British arrived, Aden was no more than a large native village, nestling in its volcano, with the presence of another village, Ma`alla, made up of African peoples, dhow-builders, fishermen and caravaneers, lying just outside the crater. How it was during your time, would you like to introduce the city at a glance during your time? Jon: I would like to continue your thoughts on the pictures and the memories they reflect as we look through my album of life. Some of these pictures will be timeless as I look at the first photo with Shamsam Mountain towering over the locality majestically as if it is the sovereign of nature over all that surrounded it. A legend amongst the British said that if you never climbed the mountain you were destined to return. I have looked, but never climbed and as I see this picture I am led to dream of the fulfillment of this prophecy of legend. The second picture we turn to that reflects an image of life, animals, with goats on the one side and camels on the other. With each comes the picture of humanity as the people care for and lead the animals they are responsible for. Remembering that 1966/67 were troubled times in Aden with political decisions resulting in violence, it would be so easy to major upon scenes of barb wire, but though that cannot be ignored altogether I would prefer to look to another picture that shows how humanity ought to be. It is a picture of joy, walking hand in hand with local people of Aden and Somalia as young people experienced being a part of Scouting in Aden. I remembered talking with these people who were proud of their national identity and heritage, but I remember how such people were also able to reach out and support each other in all that they experienced. The next picture is of shops that were there seeking to attract the custom of the Europeans. This is a picture that reflected the opportunity of financial growth that was grasped by some. The fourth picture I am looking at is of a clock tower that bore the nickname of “Little Ben”, a clear model of “Big Ben” in London. This picture symbolized the signs of the British rule, along with various reminders of British sovereigns including Queen Victoria, whose reign dominated those early years of the British presence in Aden. The fifth picture is not merely the military on display, which was a common sight at the time, but rather I have a picture in my mind of the memory of both Arab and British working together to rebuild homes following the floods of April 1967. Mankind working together! Q: The British developed the sector outside the volcano, known as "Tawahi". They gave names to specific sectors which to the fishermen were no more than stretches of shoreline, "Crescent and Steamer Point. Western and foreign companies, plus a few diplomatic representations, settled here not far from a landing stage later to be known as the King George V quay. Where did you stay in Aden, would you like to introduce your neighborhood, some interesting people, friends, streets, favorite corners… ? Jon: I lived in Khormaksar, and studied at Khormaksar secondary school, which is now the Faculty of Education for Aden University, which some of your readers may now attend. It was considered to be an up to date purpose built school for the 20th century. It was not too long a walk from where we lived in what was known as Waterloo lines. For people visiting from the west, it was striking to find all the houses painted white, which was not so common in western countries at the time. I remember walking home between the white houses at the middle of the day with my friends and feeling overwhelmed as the heat reflected from the houses on every side. Gathered at the gates of Waterloo lines would be an assortment of vans owned by tradesmen who hoped to be able to sell their produce to the people living in the locality. Some may be selling vegetables, some would be selling fruit, and some would be selling fish. I remember there were fish being sold that I do not remember eating anywhere else, such as King Fish (wahoo?). Moving towards the main gate for RAF Khormaksar, I recall a row of shops. I remember one that sold wall carpets, and seeing my parents bartering with the shop keeper for the purchase. Bartering was not the normal way in the west where we would expect a set price marked against each produce. Beside the main gate I will never forget the young children who were there begging some with limbs missing. It was a reminder that not everyone had the best in life, and maybe we should be looking for ways of helping those less fortunate than ourselves. Amongst the leisure activities, through the day we might head for somewhere like Elephant bay, or Conquest bay, enjoying the opportunity for all year swimming. In the evening, we might attend a local disco, dancing to western pop music, or visit the cinema. I also enjoyed the opportunity with Scouts to have gliding trips. We attended a Christian church known as St Andrews. It was a place for the family to worship God with other Christians, but also had some plant life nurtured in its grounds of the patio where people could relax in a haven of peace with a cool drink of Stim. I understand the Stim Company is no longer in existence, but they were popular in the 1960’s and sold various kinds of flavoured non alcoholic soft drinks. Q: In spire of the smell of chips and the odd motor horn, the nonchalant atmosphere and the hot and humid climate rapidly remind visitors that they are indeed in Aden. Your arrival and first encounters with that "otherness"? Jon: I was like many others from the west. Stepping out of the aircraft into the atmosphere of Aden I imagined that I had been placed into an oven. The aircraft door opened, and the hot air rushed in. There was such a contrast from the coldness of British weather. It was late at night, yet still seemed very hot for us. However, in time our bodies accepted the inevitable. Q: Which events during your stay stand out or left lasting imprint or were heartbreaking? Jon: More pictures of memories! I am looking at the picture of a child playing on the roof of his father’s van. He had such a big smile on his face as he cheerfully played on the roof. As father and son looked at each other there was no doubt about the affection they held for each other. His father sold fruit and vegetables from his van and our family often exchanged friendly conversations together. Some days later, a different scene emerged. The salesman had tears in his eyes and in the midst of his emotions; he struggled to bring out the right English words. Gradually, the explanation emerged. He had been to the market with his young son, never realizing how his life would be changed in a moment. Just one bomb was all that it took, and only one life was lost, but it was the life of his son. There did not seem to be any sense to the incident, but here was a man heartbroken at the loss not merely of an innocent life, but his precious son. A child so full of life, a child with so many smiles to give, a child who’s most precious possession, life, had been stolen from him. One request he had, the image of his son. He had no photographs of him to keep. No image to send to relatives who lived a distance away and who had never had the privilege of seeing the child. These kinds of stories remind us how precious life is to be appreciated. Q: Aden, the old lady in black, has amply come of age. Today, the Yemen and the city of Aden are banking on the free zone, selective tourism may also be a driving force in development, for the region is remarkable, its beaches endless, and its underwater depth enticing. Investors understand this. New roads, hotels and services are already thriving. Have you revisited or plan to visit Aden, what are your suggestions for the city? Jon: I have never returned to Aden, but hope to do so. My financial position has meant that research to supplement my memory needed to depend upon the internet and eye witness accounts. I am interested in what you have to say regarding the use of tourism in Aden because I feel that it is an avenue of opportunity to grasp. The beaches were beautiful, as you said, especially, it seemed, the remote ones where few people would go to. Going further out to sea is tremendous variety of sea life to explore. There were a variety of sea creatures that were such a fascination to those who loved the fishing aspects of the sea life, the multitude of colors that could be seen within the small fish that swam in the shallow parts of the sea, or the Convict Surgeon fish, or "stripies" as some people would call them, then there were the common shark, sand shark, barracuda, sting rays, as well as sardines. Scuba diving was also popular amongst some in Aden, perhaps largely because the sea was so clear, and there was nothing to cloud the vision. There would be many who could recall the times when they might walk out probably one hundred yards onto the water and could still see the bottom. Those who took up such an opportunity would speak of experiencing a connection with nature; a feeling of freedom, and a transformation. They sensed that diving connected them with nature. It immersed them in new sensations and experiences. It transformed their perception of life forever. Perhaps these are the possibilities for the future. Q: One should not fail to make important decisions because the images of the past are so compelling. The past is a wonderful repository of information that can confirm your choice of the present. We must remember that the power lies in the present. How do you look back at your experience in Aden and your passage of 40 years and what lessons can be learned? Jon: The teenage years are very formative years for us all. Many times I have had to relearn the lessons, yet the basis of them can be seen within the journey recounted in my book. The key word has to be one of “relationships”. Relationships that are real and meaningful are what so many people are crying out for in the modern world. Without a real relationship, many of us will feel as if our hearts are just like the “barren rocks” that have been written about. Along the journey that has been recounted in my story of Aden, it has also been discovered the lessons that friendships on an individual and also collective basis are important. It is a true saying that “no man is an island” and the interacting with each other is crucial in the movements we will each seek to take forward. As a Christian I believe it is that personal relationship with God that has stood out in making a primary difference. That is something that will invariably mean trusting another, when knowing that there is no human answer to be grasped. The journey of life for me is something that is still continuing. Mistakes and misunderstandings will continue to be made, lessons continue to be needed to be learnt. The circle of life continues to evolve, but always there is that need to move further from being the "barren rock", to becoming more of a "living stone". Jon Magee thank you.
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Jon Magee, Aden, Southern Yemen, Aden colonial history, memoir, Khormaksar, life lessons,
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